2008 Chariot Gypsy

Jim Neal Wine Company

Healdsburg/California

$5

No, it doesn’t have the same ring to it as the venerable 2 buck Chuck. A drinkable wine at 2 dollars is certainly a remarkable feat, but let’s be honest, the Charles Shaw offerings at Trader Joe’s range from insipid to good, and when they’re good, it’s good for the price.

Here’s another Trader Joe’s exclusive that’s just plain good without the qualifier. Brimming with berry flavors  (and a touch of cherry pie) tempered by soft tannins, this wine has no rough edges. It’s a mongrel blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Sirah, Zinfandel and Sangiovese gathered from vineyards in the Napa Valley, Sonoma, San Joachin, and Monterey  counties.

Jim Neal, a former chef for Spago in Hollywood and Terra in Napa Valley, founded the Jim Neal Wine Company with the mission of producing, “refreshing, high-quality, food-friendly wines at palatable prices.”

Starting with this entry, I will also be appraising the label designs of the wines I write about (which, of course, has no bearing on the quality of wine contained therein). We live in a sea of visual mediocrity and, as a graphic designer/illustrator by trade, I feel compelled to shine a light on good design wherever I see it. This wine’s label gets kudos for it’s elegant sepia engraving graced by a single hit of vibrant red.

The Chariot Gypsy has a fervent following and quantities are limited, so grab it while you can.

Available exclusively at Trader Joe’s.

2007 Vinos Sin-Ley M5

Yecla, Spain

$13

Spain has long slaked the thirst of seekers of affordable liquid nirvana, and collectives like Vinos Sin-Ley (translation: “Wines Without Law”) are working to keep it that way. It was founded by a group of like-minded young winemakers from Spain’s various wine regions. Their goal was to create wines of quality and value through experimentation,  creativity, and innovation. In so doing, they chose not to be encumbered by the laws that typically regulate Spain’s wine industry–restrictions such as those dictating yield, grape varieties, and barrel aging. Each winemaker usually produces small batches of anywhere from 500 to 3000 cases.

The M5 (or Monastrell No. 5) is a polished red from winemaker Araceli Gonzalez and is made from 100% Monastrell grapes sourced from the Yecla region. Monastrell is a thick-skinned warm climate varietal, and the principal grape used in many Spanish and southern French appellations. With a solid core of juicy berry, plum, and cherry notes, this is a nicely balanced wine and should be a fine addition to any Autumn dining table.

Available at Bevmo and other retailers.

2007 José Maria da Fonseca “Twin Vines”

Vinho Verde, Portugal

$9

As long as the economy remains in the doldrums, I will continue to seek out wines with a strong price to value ratio and with summer in full swing, that task becomes a little easier. Hot weather quaffables, although never the last word in complexity, tend to be lighter on both the palate and the pocketbook.

This off-dry Portuguese white, served chilled, is clean and refreshing with tangy citrus flavors and a floral aroma. The acidity keeps the fruit in check for a nicely balanced wine that pairs well with seafood and chicken dishes, and is versatile enough to stand up to the robust flavors typical of Portuguese cuisine—garlic, onion, cilantro, bay leaves and coriander. The light alcohol content (10%) and mild effervescence make it a nice aperitif as well.

“Vinho Verde,” which translates to “green wine,” refers to its youth rather than color—the wines are meant to be enjoyed within a year of release. The Vinho Verde region lies in the lush northwest corner of the country between the Douro and Minho rivers. The winery is owned by the 8^th generation of the Soares Franco family, and “Twin Vines” celebrates the 2007 birth of twin daughters to Antonio Maria Soares Franco and his wife.

Available at Bevmo and other retailers.

2007 Tormaresca Neprica

Puglia, Italy
From $8 to $10

This smooth-drinking garnet blend of negroamaro, primitivo and cabernet sauvignon grapes (hence the moniker – the winemakers combined the first letters of each grape varietal) is a “food wine.” It is heavier than a typical Chianti, displaying earthy black cherry, raspberry and anise notes, and has enough acidity to pair well with pizza, spaghetti bolognese, spicy grilled sausages and other hearty southern Italian fare.
The Neprica hails from the southern Italian province of Puglia, also known as the “heel” of the Italian boot. Anyone who’s ever backpacked from Italy to Greece has likely traveled through this region en route to Brindisi, the gateway ferry departure point.

Tuscany’s venerable Antinori family (producer of the famed super-Tuscan Tignanello) invested heavily in the Tormaresca property in 1998, their first southern foray, and 10 years on it’s now paying dividends. At just under $10, this is one of their least expensive offerings, and a terrific value.
–Greg Clarke

2007 Tormaresca Neprica
Available at Cost Plus World Market and BevMo!